9) Paper Catrina, Day of the Dead

9) Paper Catrina, Day of the Dead

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico / October 2012

Paper Catrina, Day of the Dead

I had only been in San Miguel de Allende for a few days prior to the annual Mexican celebration known as ‘Day of the Dead’ (Dia des los Muertos), when this photo was taken. Skulls are a revered symbol in Mexico and are not some kind of Hells Angels thing glorifying death in a fearful way. It is a time to remember and honor past family members, friends, relatives, national heroes or role models who have passed away. Like Halloween, it usually takes place on the last day of October. You will soon be exposed to it via the new Bond film – Spectre, that features this festival-like atmosphere that was recreated and filmed in Mexico City. Unverified rumors have it that some Bond scenes were also shot in San Miguel.

My wife and I had been staying in a close section of town called San Antonio. I was in a rush to get to the town square for the big celebration for a brand new festival called La Calaca. One of the key features of Day of the Dead is the parade of the Catrinas. A Catrina is the mythical name for a woman who died on her wedding night and she is always portrayed in a wedding dress with the face of a skull. It has almost become a custom with all female participants. Men also follow suit but with the attire of a groom.

As I rounded a corner onto the Ancha, a main artery street leading to the Jardin (center square), the doors to an antique store were open and this young woman dressed as a Catrina, was standing there. Her mother was pampering her with some last minute make-up. The Catrina was wearing a wedding dress made up of newspaper, with most of the pages being obituaries. I was instantly awed by the look and then with the concept. In my feeble attempt at Spanish, I requested to take a photo of her. Her mother and her agreed.

Later that night after an amazing musical performance with what was billed as an earth harp, the stage in front of the Parroquia (main church) was cleared and a contest commenced for the best dressed Catrina. After about 30 minutes of contestants parading around on stage in some very impressive attire and make-up, the participating crowd had whittled the contestants down to three finalists. This girl, with the newspaper wedding dress, was declared the winner and actually won first prize!!!

I felt honored and blessed that I had had the opportunity to photograph her when her costume and make up was at its best. And that it was in her mother’s store at the peak of its creation. This chance moment is but one of many that I keep experiencing in San Miguel. It’s a town that has been nicknamed – Magic Town. Serendipity indeed!

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